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Iris Explorer v4, v4.2, I60

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Iris Explorer settings

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Other products

IE v2 v3

IRG16

IMS

IE v4 v4.2 I60 I60M

Frequently asked questions

▼ Is it difficult to use?
This camera is made for the general public and the design set a high priority on "Ease of use".

We have sold hundreds of Iriscopes and have a 100% user satisfaction - not 1 Iriscope has ever been returned!). Every single user has been able to make the Iriscope work for them, even though it has to be used in a precise way it doesn't take long to get very good.

◄ Is it good enough for a professional iridologist?

Yes, to our knowledge there is no better solution out there and the quality of picture taken will reveal as much detail as the Iris has to offer.

◄ How sharp are the actual pictures?

(The photos i can see on this website are pretty impressive, can I expect all my pictures to be as high quality? Are some of the photos on the Website "fine-tuned" (sharpened, contraste, gamma, saturation etc...)? The pictures on the site were taken with the Canon 1100D in JPG (and some in RAW) format, then compressed to improve website loading times. This reduces the quality slightly, so we fine then tune some of the photos (sharpening them and using contrast) to get back some of the lost quality. You can expect your images to be as good or better.
Here is the gallery of the IE v3.

◄ Do you recommend that I fine-tune the images that come out of the camera, or leave them untouched?

There is no need to spend time playing with the image - just take a photo then do your iridology analysis.
If you are preparing posters, a book or a presentation, then go ahead and fine-tune the image but the quality is great straight out of the camera.
In some cases, if the image is a bit too dark, or was taken a little too quickly and is a bit blurred, then fine-tuning can regain some lost details.
Also with dark brown irises it is sometimes useful to increase the exposure settings, and this can be done to a certain extent to the photo after it has been taken - see the other FAQ answers regards Brown Irises.

◄ Does the IrisExplorer still work well with Brown Irises?

Dark irises are more difficult to observe & photograph. I see on this website some examples photos of dark irises that look good, but in real life, will it be easy to get good quality brown iris photos?
Yes, some brown irises can be more difficult to photograph.
A rough estimate from our experience is that about 25% of brown irises are more difficult, but this does not mean it is not possible.
As you can see, some are great, some seem less sharp and seem to lose detail.
There are a few ways to handle this:
1. Change the settings of the camera. Set the camera to 1/40 and if required the ISO to 1600.
2. Take more photos and pick the best ones.
3. Practice using the camera more. The more you handle the camera, the better you get at positioning the camera correctly, the steadier you will be when taking the shot...

◄ The lights shine directly into the eyes, is this damaging/dangerous for the retina?

The lights used in the IrisExplorer v4 are specialised LEDs, light levels emitted are very low (similar to 3-4 candles) and are therefore safe. The light is pulsed at high frequency (invisible for our eyes), thus reducing the feeling of brightness. For extra sensitive people the light levels can be dimmed down.
For comfort reasons we recommend not to light an eye for more than 3 minutes at a time and to regularly check with your patient to see if they are comfortable.

◄ What should I do with my Iridology photos?

As with any digital camera the photo is stored on the memory card and needs to be exported to your computer. Connect the camera, save the image into your client documents. (We have little videos that show you how to do this properly and help you easily stay organised).

◄ Looking Straight

Question: Do you have any tricks for getting clients to 'look straight into the lens'? If I have a focus problem it's because I don't have the iris centered which, as you know, leads to an image that is only partially in focus. Answer: The words I use are to get the client looking in the right direction are something like this: 'Look in between the lights - it is tempting to look at the most obvious image but rather than look at either one of the lights, look in between them. You may see what looks like runway landing lights - if you do, ideally they will be in a straight horizontal line, but if you can't or it's not clear what I'm talking about, the main thing is to simply look straight ahead in between the lights with your eyes wide open.'

◄ Green Eyes

Question: I have real challenges getting green eyes to show up green and light hazel eyes to not wash out - they wash out and look bluer than what I see when I am looking right at the person. (I wonder if the white balance on my old camera was not set correctly and might have made some eyes look more green. My old camera (15 years old, 8 megapixel) led to prints that were very green or just darker and more biliary looking.) Answer: There is no such thing as green eyes - i.e. they appear green but are blue with orange pigmentation overlaid.